BOOK ONE! 613 536 TUBS (8827)
Monday to Friday: 10.00 AM - 05.00 PM
BOOK ONE! 613 536 TUBS (8827)
Monday to Friday: 10.00 AM - 05.00 PM
Size of tub: 79” in diameter x 33” high
Recommended footprint with cover lifter and steps: 8’ x 10’
Weight of tub: 275lbs when empty and 3100lbs when full
Volume of water in tub: 1000L (250 gallons)
Cord length: 14 ft from the left of the steps (when facing tub)
Hold light button for 10 seconds, once you see D, click light button to scroll through options. Use arrows to adjust
d = Duration, max 24 (how long the filtration cycle runs for)
F = Frequency, max 4 (how often the filtration cycle runs)
F = Fahrenheit/Celsius
b = Breaker 15/40
Note: to reach ‘b‘ you must hold light button for 30 seconds, even after you see ‘d‘
Please feel free to call or email us for more immediate answers.
The shell of every RotoSpa hot tub is constructed using a process called rotational molding. The shell ingredients are placed in a mold which is rotated horizontally and vertically then baked producing a one piece shell which is incredibly strong and impervious to environmental influences. It is guaranteed for five years but we know it will provide years of trouble free enjoyment. It is called a spa because it is a special place to relax.
RotoSpa is by far your best value in a portable hot tub. It is a full featured, portable hot tub that will provide years of enjoyment for you and your family at a reasonable cost. Every RotoSpa hot tub is made using our exclusive one-piece molding process making it a more durable product than acrylic and fiberglass alternatives. A ‘no wood enclosure’ means less maintenance over the long run.
RotoSpa hot tubs are manufactured in Lakefield, Ontario which is just outside of Peterborough, Ontario, Canada.
You can place your hot tub on any surface strong enough to support the weight of the hot tub (3100lbs) such as grass, a deck or patio – anywhere really. Fill the hot tub from a standard water source and plug it into your household outlet. Your hot tub will be ready to enjoy once the heater achieves your desired temperature. Now just sit back and relax.
Yes, RotoSpas are fully insulated and sealed. Think of our shells as a Thermos – they lock the heat in and the cold out.
a) Empty as much water out as you can using a submersion pump or syphon b) Once tub is as empty as possible, use a shop vac to blow out the remaining water in the lines Simply remove the skimmer assembly, filter basket and filter and then put the shop vac hose into the filter canister and blow air into the lines. Then, take the shop vac and put the hose up to each of the jets and suck out the remaining water c) Take some RV antifreeze and pour about a cup down the filter canister into the small cylinder at the bottom. Use the shop vac to quickly blow the antifreeze into the plumbing/motor. Repeat 2-3 more times d) Put cover back on tub and cover with a tarp from the elements ensuring cord/GFI are protected if you have the tub set-up as a 120v
A thermostatically controlled heater maintains the water temperature in the hot tub. You set the temperature – approximately 100 degrees F. in the summer, 104 degrees F. in the winter, and the hot tub will maintain that temperature on it’s own. RotoSpa hot tubs have a 1KW heating element in it’s 120v household plug mode, which comes with a 4KW heating element when wired for 240v.
a) Remove cover b) Remove warm water and add cold water (about 1/3 of the water from the tub) c) Lower temperature level on display by using down arrow
Our hot tubs have a five year warranty on the shell, three years on the controller, 2 years on the pump & 1 year on everything else.
Every RotoSpa dealer is factory trained.
All hot tubs require periodic checking of the water chemistry and filter rinsing. Tubs marketed as self cleaning use the same filtration system as RotoSpa and require exactly the same maintenance. RotoSpa’s do not develop an etched waterline like acrylic tubs. A RotoSpa hot tub keeps it’s new appearance for years as a result of the material being a solid core.
We do not recommend using saltwater in our hot tubs as, over time, it will corrode the metal heat tube.
This also depends on what type of water you have, how often you use the tub and what chemicals you are using: a) Chlorine: 1 puck, 1-2 times a week; 1 cap of shock with each puck (let tub stand 15 mins after) b) Bromine: 1 puck, 1-2 times a week; 1 cap of shock with each puck (let tub stand 15 mins after) c) Peroxysan (29%): ¼ of a jug, once a week d) Natural Enzymes (Spa Marvel): ½ container every 3 months as well as 1 chlorine puck per week
a) Using chlorine/bromine: add an extra cap full of shock b) Using peroxysan: add an extra quarter of peroxysan c) Using Natural Enzymes: add an extra chlorine puck or 1/2 cup of Javex d) Increase filtration rate
Both chemicals have a distinct scent, cost the same to use and are treated similarly. The main difference is whether or not you have a preference or if you have a sensitivity to one or the other.
This depends on how often you use your tub but we recommend having 2 filters and alternating them every month while cleaning the one taken out. To clean the filter, soak it in a 5-gallon jug with ½ cup of bleach for 4-5 hours, rinse out thoroughly and dry.
The filter is rated for 25sq ft and is 13” (length) x 5” (diameter). The filter code is PRB25-IN-M.
It depends on the type of water you have, how often you use your tub and what chemicals you are using but, typically, we recommend D2 F4 (2 hours x 4 times in 24hrs)
There is no drain at the bottom of the tub. You can use a submersible pump to drain the tub or set-up a hose as a syphon by putting the jets on high and placing one end of the hose in front of a jet with the other out of the tub. Once the syphon has started pushing water through the hose, let the end of the hose near the jet fall to the bottom of the tub.
We have determined that our competition comes from 2 main varieties of tubs: lightweight, portable hot tubs and more expensive, permanent hot tubs. Lightweight portable hot tubs, generally, are light because they are made from a foam core with a vinyl liner and outer skins, which will eventually stretch, fade, rip and need to be replaced at your expense. These vinyl surfaces absorb mildew and odours reducing the life of the tub. They generally lack seating and the features found in our hot tubs. More expensive, permanent hot tubs, cost substantially more. They require a dedicated electrical circuit and poured concrete pad to support the weight which you can expect to pay an additional $1000.00 to $2000.00 for. The electrical costs to run these hot tubs are much higher as is the cost of accessories and options. In the Canadian climate they often cannot be installed in the winter months due to frost.
Both cost roughly the same to run but there are 4 main differences between 120v and 240v: a) With 120v, the tub heater will turn off when the pump is on high speed but it will remain on with 240v – for most people, this is a non-issue as you don’t usually have the jets on high speed the whole time you’re in the tub b) With 120v, the tub takes longer to heat up when filling: roughly 1.5 degrees/hour for 120v (1kw) and 6 degrees/hour for 240v (4kw) c) A tub set-up as 120v plugs into a regular wall outlet and allows the tub to be portable d) A tub set-up as 240v doesn’t cost more to purchase but can be more expensive once an electrician gets involved with hardwiring the tub to the home
a) Replace breaker with a ‘spa GFI 40-amp breaker’ b) At least an 8-gauge wire is required from the breaker panel to the tub c) The wiring in the spa pack/controller must be switched over: For a Gecko Xe controller: open the 6 screw panel, to the left, you will see 4 posts and 3 white wires going to the heat tube. On a 120v set-up, the white wires will be in the 1st, 3rd & 4th positions, leaving the 2nd post empty. To convert the tub to 240v, move the white wire on the 1st post to the 2nd post, leaving the 1st post now empty, and the 2nd, 3rd & 4th posts wired. For a Gecko Ye controller: open the 4 screw panel, to the top left, you will see a brown wire with a yellow jumper on P10 for 120v. Move that jumper to P9 for 240v. d) The tub breaker ‘b’ setting must be changed to 40 on the keypad. To do this, hold down the light button for about 30 seconds, even after you see ‘d’ appear. Once you see ‘b’, use the up arrow to switch from 15 to 40.
Expect to pay approximately up to $15.00 per month in the summer and up to $30.00 in the coldest month of the winter.
120v: A tub set-up as 120v draws a maximum of 12.5 amps and should be on a 20-amp breaker. A 15-amp breaker would be sufficient as long as it is a dedicated outlet to the tub. 240v: A tub set-up as 240v draws a maximum of 28.5 amps and should be on a ‘spa 40-amp GFI breaker’
Yes. We live in this climate and designed our hot tubs to withstand the demands of the elements. Many of our competitors hot tubs are made in warmer climates and shipped north. They often lack insulation and their components are not designed to meet the rigours of the Canadian climate.